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Traditional dress

10/03/2010

VGP - Traditional dress of Hà Nội citizens in the "pre-Thăng Long" period was not so different from those of the Văn Lang-Âu Lạc people as a whole.

Young Hanoian girls in Lemur long dress áo dài

Historians and archaeologists tell us that male garments consisted only of a loin-cloth, leaving the body naked and tattooed with dragons and other figures. Female clothes included a short vest to the waist, and a scarf covering the breast decorated with a rice-grain design. Both men and women were fond of ornaments, especially bracelets, toe rings and earrings made of stone and bronze.

Under the Lý Dynasty (1009-1225), silk production was developed and along with this came silk-weaving. Silk fabrics proliferated in various kinds, like brocade and satin and they were sophisticatedly decorated. Clothes at that time showed clearly the distinction between the nobility and the common people.

Under the Trần Dynasty (1225-1400) garments were strictly designed for each social class. For instance, Royal princes wore royal crowns; purple was for first grade mandarins, red for second grade ones and pink for third grade ones. Court servants wore open skirts, soldiers wore only a loose sleeve vest, without armor. Common people were prohibited to wear blue, red, purple or yellow.

In the Lê-Mạc period (15th-17th centuries) garments for the nobility didn't change. Yellow was still uniquely reserved for the King, purple for a great Lord, blue for the Crown Prince, red for a Prince (son of Great Lord). Common people usually wore black and ivory.

During the 18th-19th centuries, Hà Nội's women wore gauze tunics and satin trousers. That was most fashionable at that time. The most highly appreciated gauze was that from La Cả Village (Hoài Dức District, Hà Nội).

Young Hanoians in long dress today

Previously, Hanoians used to go to Hàng Đào Street to buy clothes; this was the center for every kind of cloth and the famous weaving-products of Hà Nội.

Hàng Ngang and Hàng Vải Streets were other centers for cloth. The most skillful tailors of Hà Nội gathered in Hàng Trống and Hàng Gai Streets.

To cover their heads, Hanoians used to adopt three styles: the hat, palm-hat and turban. The most typical was the palm-hat. There are a great variety of palm-hats in Hà Nội. Feather-hats were for mandarins and village notables.

On their feet, Hanoians adopted clogs, sandals and shoes. The wood sometimes natural painted or lacquered. Nowadays, clogs are popular only among women. Men rarely make use of them.

From a historical point view, traditional dress of Thăng Long-Hà Nội citizens has experienced great changes through the various periods.

(Hà Nội Times)

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